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Grips and Boxes Update



Hi All:

First, on the boxes: my top box was in, but not the rack it 
mounts on.  PITA.  Anyways, the box looks very nice.  The 
bottom is made of that high impact plastic like Craftsman 
drill and saber saw boxes are, in a matte black.  The top
looks to be made out of fairing-stuff, and is finished to
match the bike.  Nice.  The hardware is 90% done coming out
of the box, looks like it just screws together.  More later.

As for the grips, I found something called TackiGrip, out of 
Reseda, CA.  The actual grips are 130-135 mm circumference
around the center portion, somewhat less on the ends.  They
have Grand Touring USA molded on, probably the model name.
They come too long and must be cut back.  The fifth indent of
the grip is about the right length.  I used a razor saw called
a 'Snap Saw' from Atlas Model Railroad Company, which you can
get at most hobby shops.  The grips have a recess that 
accommodates the teeth at the end of the throttle tube, so they 
snug up all the way.

Performance wise, I like them a lot from the first test drive.
I needn't have my hands so tightly balled up, and it really
relaxes the tendon/muscle strain.  I expect it will kill the
stiffness and numbness that I have been getting on longer
rides.  If you have big hands or long fingers I recommend you 
swap out the grips.

For bad news, while fighting the grip on I busted the locator
tang on the rear half of the right hand switch unit.  These
have always been clamped on my previous motorcycles, and if
you moved them, no sweat, you just loosen them and readjust,
much as the brake handle unit on the ST.  The right hand
switch unit on the ST does not work this way.  It is located
by a pin in the back half of the switch unit which seats 
into a hole in the handlebar stub.  I sheared this pin,
and the unit is made of engineering plastic.

Shit.  300 miles and I broke it already.  

Oh well.  I also know how to fix shit.  Here is the fix if
you ever shear this locator pin.  There is a .080" hole down 
the middle of the boss which ends in the locator pin.  This 
boss is about 3/4 inch deep, and the pin is .180" diameter and
protrudes .150" into the handlebar.  Using a set of number 
drills and a pin vise, drill the hole out two sizes at a time 
to .096".  Then drill the first 1/8" depth of the hole out 
two sizes at a time to .110".  Screw a 4-40 x 1/2" stainless 
steel hex head cap screw (Ace HW has them) into the hole until 
its head protrudes .150" from the edge that seats up against 
the handlebar.  Replace the unit.  Replacement of the unit 
requires loosening the brake handle assembly and sliding it 
further in on the handlebar stub.  This fix is more sturdy than 
the original: you are not going to shear that machine screw,
you will have to bust the entire boss out to break it.

Anyway, I recommend that if you replace the grips, that you
remove the throttle tube as follows.  Remove the handlebar end.
Loosen the brake handle assembly and slide it up the handlebar 
stub.  Remove the two phillips head screws which hold the two 
halves of the right hand switch unit together.  Disengage the 
throttle cable end from the throttle tube.  Slide the throttle 
tube off the handlebar stub.  Reverse to replace.  Removing and 
replacing the grip without damaging the switch unit is much 
easier with the throttle tube off the bike.

So, it's back together now, and with fatty grips, but no can
use the box yet without the rack....


Rich Weyand      |  _______   ___,---. ---+_______:_   |Rich Weyand
Weyand Associates| |_N_&_W_| |_N_&_W_| |__|________|_  |TracTronics
Comm Consultants |  ooo ooo ~ ooo ooo ~ oOOOO- OOOO=o\ |Model RR Electronics
weyand@xxxxxxx   |     http://www.mcs.net/~weyand/     |weyand@xxxxxxx

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